I can't believe we have
now been in Canada for 4 weeks and in our cottage for 3, we are
already a third of the way through our 3 months here.
Christmas was quiet,
which was how we like it. Our Christmas tree looked lovely and it
snowed on Christmas eve, just what we ordered!:) The cottage is
homely and cosy and the views spectacular.
On Christmas Eve, Bruce
a local guy who runs boat tours during the summer dropped by to
invite us over for a traditional Newfie Christmas dinner of salt cod,
served with molasses raisin bread and Partridge berry jam!
(Newfoundland has a lot of unique berries, as well as Partridge
berries, there are bake apples, and cloudberries as well) Apparently
this is what all good Newfies have for supper on Christmas Eve. It
was lovely to meet some of our neighbours and to see how other people
celebrate Christmas eve. It was an early night as the family was off
to church at 7 pm. As we had already completed our church going quota
for the year, we begged off and were home nice and early.
We have had quite a few
snowfalls since we have arrived and in between have managed to
explore all the local villages and roadways within a 100 kilometre
radius.
We have found out a
bit more about the area where we are living. We are in what used to
be known as an out- port. Newfoundland is an island full of little
bays and coves and fjords and when settlers arrived they moved into
most of them and made a living fishing. The out-ports had no road
access and were only accessible by boat. During the period between
the 50's and the 70's the government decided to try and resettle the
population into more concentrated population centres and to build
roads to those communities. During this time over 300 communities
were abandoned and 30, 000 people resettled. Bruce's family is one
of those who were resettled and he takes his boat tours to some of
the now abandoned out-ports which are still only accessible by boat
or quad bike in the summer or snowmobile in the winter.
Dunfield, where we are
is one of the communities which had a road built into it and fishing
used to be it's mainstay. However over overfishing in the 60' s and
70's (not by local fishermen, but foreign fishing boats dredging the
floor of the Grand Banks where the cod fish used to spawn and
basically decimating the fish stocks which have still not
recovered)has killed off the fishing industry. Now the remaining folk
here earn an income during the summer by working construction or
partaking in the burgeoning tourist trade or else the young people
move to the cities or the mainland to seek work. Most of the
population of Dunfield are retired and they and their families have
lived here for generations.
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Electronic moose detection system |
The country side is
spectacularly beautiful, it is all forested, interrupted only by
lakes and ponds. When it snows the already iced over lakes glisten in
the sun like diamonds as the sun glints off the snow crystals. It is
moose hunting season and nearly all the locals we have met have a
hunting licence. We were at the local supermarket the other week and
a ute pulled up with a fresh moose carcass in the back. Our landlord,
Dustin gave us a jar of home shot and potted moose meat for
Christmas, which we have yet to try. You can't buy moose meat in the
shops but most people have a freezer full!
The novelty of seeing
huge white snow flakes fall or watch huge icicles form from the roof
when it melts hasn't worn off yet:)
We spend our days
reading, watching TV or working on the computer.
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The T.C.H. at Gander |
A few days ago we
decided to explore further afield and drive to the closest big town,
Gander, about 200 kilometres away. In many ways it's a bit like being
on the boat as we had to keep an eye on the weather to select a
'window' to make the trip. It was a 3 hour drive in each direction
and we wanted to ensure we would have no ice, snow storms or severe
weather while we were gone. We also wanted to try and be home before
it got too late as moose on the loose present a huge problem on
country roads at night. They are big animals (horse size) and can
suddenly burst out of the woods and on to the road. Each year there
are many moose related car accidents. In other parts of Canada where
moose are prevalent, the highways are usually fenced. But
Newfoundland is such a big island with such a small population it
doesn’t make financial sense to do this, so we try and not to be
out too late. Don't want a moose in the front seat with us:)
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Dee's favorite doughnut shop in the whole world! |
We made it to Gander
and back without incident, but we had picked one of the coldest days
we have had so far. Despite being sunny and bright it was very windy.
The temperature was -14 degrees C but with the wind chill factor it
was -26 degrees. Yes those are minus signs in front of the temps!!
Our anoraks and snow boots kept bodies and feet cosy, although long
johns would have been handy for the legs. Noses and cheeks got rosy
quite quickly and that was just dashing from car to shops! No wonder
they sell electric rechargeable shoes (battery lasts 7 hours) and all
manner of warm, padded clothing we have never seen anywhere else. How
else could you go moose hunting or keep building a house in those
sort of temperatures??
We
are so relaxed here and really enjoying experiencing something very
different and that we could never do on Sunflower.
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