Wednesday 14 November 2012

At home in Finike, southern Turkey.

Finike Marina
We are enjoying our sojourn in Finike. It is a lovely Turkish country town with little or no tourist trade. It doesn't even rate a mention in Lonely Planet! This is a bonus for us as it doesn’t close down in winter. It does have a long beach outside of town and several hotels which seem to cater to local holiday makers. Otherwise it is just the locals, most of who seem to make a living from agriculture. Finike is in the centre of a huge citrus growing are, mainly oranges and there are acres of greenhouses in the hills growing tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplant all year around.



Finike has a small river running through to the ocean from the mountains and as it runs through the centre of town there are numerous little pedestrian bridges across it. At first glance they look to be made of wood, but are in fact concrete, carefully moulded and painted to look just like tree limbs. There are pergolas made the same way and festooned with bright bougainvillea.(real) Benches are all along the river front, also wood look alike. There are several well tended parks all with a water features and more 'wooden' benches with plenty of leafy shade to sit under. The median strips are also lovingly tended and feature many giant oranges(fake):) OK it's all a bit kitsch, but still shows a town proudly maintained and tended by the local council and inhabitants. It is spotlessly clean and of course the locals are all friendly as usual, although far less of them speak English here than in the more touristy areas. Altogether we find it a charming place.



There are several restaurants all within a stones throw of the marina and much cheaper than we are used to. The price of the main course usually includes a large bottle of mineral water, hot bread and a few dips and cheese and after the main meal,tea coffee and sometimes fruit. The main courses are around 10 lire ($5 or 3 pounds fifty) If you want to splurge you can pay 15 lire! It is almost cheaper to eat out than to cook. For 10 lire I have had a whole grilled sea bass complete with salad and chips including all the extras mentioned above! Delish and no washing up!



The Port Hole - cruiser's club house
The marina couldn't be more different to last years in Cyprus. It was brand spanking new, almost too new, as lots of things weren’t actually working yet:) Finike marina is an older well established marina, and we have heard several cruisers disparage it because of that and they head for the newer marinas in Kas and Antalya. While the newer marinas might look spiffy we have heard that both of these new marinas have issues during winter storms with inadequate breakwaters and poorly fixed pontoons, both of which can and have caused damage to boats left there over winter.



At least with a well established marina like Finike all the kinks have been ironed out. The docks are concrete not floating, so they won't be wobbling in a storm! The breakwater is substantial and we have met boats who have wintered her for the past 14 years with no issues. We can also haul out here and leave the boat on the hard if we want to. The other nice thing is that there is a real mixture of nationalities here, not just Brits who seem to have dominated the Med so far in our experience. There are French, Germans many Swedes and a couple of Russians which makes it very interesting as most of them speak English. There is also a well established club house for cruisers called the Port Hole with a huge TV, kitchen and book swap. Activities over winter include regular coffee mornings, pub nights, several different exercise classes, walking clubs, cycling clubs, trips to concerts in Antalya, quiz nights, regular Sunday BBQs and the marina is even putting on a 'welcome to winter' party at their expense. It all sounds lovely, excerpt we won't be here for most of it!



When we arrived here and were coming in through the breakwater we had to motor past the big fuel dock. We were surprised to see a bride and groom in full penguin suit and meringue frock having photos taken there! Wedding photos by a fuel pump? Each to their own. However all this paled into insignificance as the other day, while we were sanding in the cockpit, another happy couple came marching down our dock, photographer in tow. They selected the boat next to us, belonging to a bewildered looking Frenchman who was in the middle of checking his rigging and after exchanging a few words proceeded up his gangplank where they posed unabashedly on the bow of his boat! A slight improvement over the fuel dock we suppose:) Maybe it just beats a giant orange!







The weather has been glorious, warm (27-29 degrees) and sunny, until yesterday when we headed out to the local market. It looked stormy and we had just stopped at a supermarket when the heavens opened and stayed open and gushed while the water level on the ground rose to well above the foot high kerbs and then it hailed! Not exactly golf ball sized, but grape sized at least. It was rather a shock to see balls of ice bounce off the roof of our rental car after the previous warm weather. The storm lasted a few hours, although the hail abated after about 15 minutes, today the sun is shining again:)



We have completed the varnishing in the rear cabin and have decided to leave the galley until another time. To make sure we don't forget her, Sunflower has decided to block the front loo so the captain gets to do one of his favourite jobs (not), unblock the toilet:) We only have a week before we complete on our villa purchase and move in for the winter, so this will be the last chronicle from Sunflower for a while:) The next news will be 'tales from the villa'! So this week will be busy cleaning and sorting and deciding what goes with us and what stays here, and then we're on to an adventure of a different kind....