Buddy Wasisiname and the other Fellas

We have recently returned from a fun weekend in St John's as we had tickets for a Buddy Wassisname concert. We bought a tape of their music during our first visit to Newfoundland in 1997 and have enjoyed their music ever since. The trip there was fine but we had a very 'interesting' journey home.

We left Dunfield at around 7.30 am on a bright sunny morning although it was a tad chilly, at -12 degrees. It got colder as we moved east with the thermometer in the car showing an outside temp of -23! yes that's a minus sign in front of the number! The roads were clear of both snow and traffic and while the fir trees were laden down with snow the bare branches of the deciduous trees were heavily laden with ice and when the sunlight hit them they sparkled and twinkled as if they were lit with flashing LED lights. The frozen ponds and lakes also looked like they were sprinkled with diamonds. It was so beautiful!

We arrived in St John's and did the few chores we had to do and then checked into our accommodation for the evening. While we had been driving down the radio had been giving regular weather updates and a big storm was due to cross the east coast of Newfoundland over night bringing strong winds and blizzard conditions. We checked with our landlady to see if the flat was available should we need to stay another night, luckily it was so we had a fall-back position if we needed to stay. Most modern Canadian houses have huge basements, the same size as the house but partially submerged. They have windows at ground level which let in light and are above head height from inside. Many people convert their basements into family rooms or in this case self contained accommodation. We had a very nice queen bed room, bathroom with bath and shower, fully equipped kitchen and lounge with leather sofa and big TV and Wi-Fi. All this for $70 a night, much cheaper than a 2 star hotel and far more comfy!

When it looked like we may have to stay another night because of weather we popped into the supermarket for emergency supplies. Then it was time to head off to the Buddy Wasisname concert. It was held in a local ice rink called the Mount Pearl Glacier. 

Buddy Wasisname and the other fellas...and us.

We had a wonderful time enjoying traditional Newfie folk music, jigs and comedy songs. We laughed all through the 2 hour show, then afterward we were able to meet with the fellas and have a chat. They were amazed we had come so far to see them! We left the Glacier wondering if we would be able to drive home, the wind was certainly up and blowing loose snow across the streets, but we made it back safe and sound.

Next morning there was a blizzard warning out and the radio was telling everyone to stay home! We treated it as if we were heading out on an ocean trip, Alan even got GRIB files down to check the weather which clearly showed a big storm cell off the east coast with very strong winds. Eventually after some umming and aahing we decided to try it and see, knowing we could come back if it was too bad. We left about 11 am on Saturday morning and St John's was like a ghost town! Our hosts had dug the car out for us (even though we had thought to bring the snow shovel with us!) we inched our way on to the main road. The wind was very strong and blowing snow everywhere, although no fresh snow was falling. There were snow drifts about 10 feet high on either side of the streets from 2 previous storms and where the snow plough had cleared the roads earlier. We nearly turned back trying to get onto the Trans Canada highway as there was a steep ramp covered in snow and vehicles were struggling to get up and going sideways! All we had to do was get down though, and we decided gravity would help with that so we went for it! Once on the highway the road was mainly clear, although strong winds would send swirling snow across the highway especially in the open stretches of road. If it had been snowing, visibility would have been zero.

We made it to Clarenville OK in slower than usual time but then it was time to get off the highway and the country roads were not as good. They were covered in snow and ice so we dropped the speed and crept along very sedately. 

You can see the snow being blown across the road

The wind was picking up and by the time we made it to Dunfield it was blowing about 50 knots and light snow was falling so we had made it back just in time. We were very glad we had the snow shovel in the car as snow had drifted halfway up across the front door and we had to dig our way back in!

We have stayed snuggled warm and toasty indoors watching the exciting weather in comfort.

He like lying on his side!

We are being storm bashed and very glad we don't have to go anywhere. There is huge surf and big rollers crashing on our beach as the winds are out of the east. It has got warmer and is now 3-4 degrees positive! This has brought rain rather than snow and so much of it is melting and turning to slush.

A large seal lolloped ashore this morning, so graceful in the water, so ungainly on land, so Alan braved the weather to take photos. I think he just wanted a break from the rough seas:) (the seal, not Alan). It's is the only living thing we have seen for days!

We may venture out tomorrow for supplies.

Dunfield, Newfoundland, Canada

While we are not actually 'doing' much to write about I realised that I have probably not really managed to convey the spirit of where we are.

Part of Dunfield from the hill behind our cottage

For me a city girl, it is a novel experience to be part of such a small isolated community. For Alan, who grew up in a small isolated village, in Australia, similar to Dunfield, it is a familiar feeling. Although even Lowanna where Alan grew up, had a corner store and a post office, Dunfield has neither. There is no public transport so a car is an essential and if you have to get to work in all weathers then 4 wheel drive is almost compulsory. People who do not have cars rely on their neighbours to take them to the shops or doctors appointments etc. Many of the villagers are second and third generation and live in the same houses their parents and even grandparents were born and grew up in. About 40 houses are occupied here. Many of the villagers share common surnames like Spurrell or Clarke and even if they are not related they have known each other all their lives. Everybody knows what is going on and who is doing what. There are a few newcomers who have restored old cottages here as summer residences and only visit for a few weeks at a time.

Our local "corner store".

The closest shop of any kind is several kilometres away and is a basic convenience store and while it stocks all the basics, like most small convenience stores anywhere it is expensive. You still have to drive to get there. 

The big supermarket at Port Rexton

A few extra kilometres brings you to Port Rexton which has 2 small supermarkets, one of which is a co-op and has good products at reasonable prices. The other supermarket also has a liquor store attached as well as petrol pumps. In addition there is also our closest open restaurant called Coopers, which sells basic burgers, fish and chips and a tasty concoction called a truckers special of chips, mince meat cheese and gravy. No health food here!

A house in Trinity

Next to Port Rexton is the well known village of Trinity which is full of beautifully restored buildings on a hill with water all around. There is a church, theatre, bank,several craft shops, cafes B&B's and holiday cottages. However, only about 4 families live there year around and right now it is like a ghost town as all the tourist places are closed until May.

Bonavista lighthouse

Our closest 'town' is Bonavista about 50 kilometres away on the northern tip of the peninsula. We pass through many small villages on the way, but Bonavista has several eateries, and supermarkets and other small shops. It is mainly a fishing town and there is a fish processing facility. And of course in summer there are tourists who come to see the lighthouse and a replica of John Cabot's ship the Matthew. Cabot arrived in Newfoundland over 500 years ago. It takes about 45minutes to drive there.

For a big day out we go to Clarenville about 70 kms away and is a solid one hour drive each way. Clarenville has a hospital, Wallmart, Canadian tire (wallmart type place) 2 small malls, a variety of shops and eateries mainly of the fast food type.

Ice on the bay at Dunfield

For us, the Trans Canada Highway starts at Clarenville so it is all country roads until we get there. The roads cut through beautiful forest land with lakes and frozen ponds everywhere.

We love the cottage it is very comfortable and cosy. We had wanted to have a log fire but actually we are glad we don't have to worry about keeping the fire stoked and the supply of firewood. The electric heating is included in the cost of the cottage and works very well. Our kitchen, dining and living and bedrooms all look over the ocean and our private cove. There is an island on the horizon which looks like a mini Ayers rock in the middle of the ocean. We have rugged cliffs behind the cottage and pine forests all around the other sides. On bright sunny days the water sparkles even though it can be sub zero outside.

Our first ever attempt at a snowman

Today we have had the biggest snowstorm since we arrived in Canada, our island has disappeared in the fog and snow is swirling around the cottage. It is building on the window ledges, the car is just a huge white mound and the sea laps against a snow covered beach. It is always very quite here, except for the sound of the ocean, however the snow dampens all sound so it is even quieter than normal, The cliffs are all white and the fir trees are weighed down with the soft white powder.

We could probably have gone somewhere less remote to experience snow. There are plenty of European countries,like Austria and Switzerland with snow, even Scotland. But they are also major winter sports destinations and that's not what we wanted, although Alan is very keen to go snowmobiling. Seeing as just about every rural Canadian owns a snowmobile I don't think it will be hard to get him a ride, we just need enough snow, and if it keeps up like it is today that shouldn't be a problem!

a local road in Dunfield

The Newfies are excellent at keeping the roads clear. 

One type of snowplough,

Time get the car out....

The snowploughs are out the minute the snow lays down. It's not just dedicated snowploughs, 4 wheels drives and even quad bikes all have blade  attachments so the locals just get out and plough away, especially in the more remote roads.

4 Weeks later....

I can't believe we have now been in Canada for 4 weeks and in our cottage for 3, we are already a third of the way through our 3 months here.

Christmas was quiet, which was how we like it. Our Christmas tree looked lovely and it snowed on Christmas eve, just what we ordered!:) The cottage is homely and cosy and the views spectacular.

On Christmas Eve, Bruce a local guy who runs boat tours during the summer dropped by to invite us over for a traditional Newfie Christmas dinner of salt cod, served with molasses raisin bread and Partridge berry jam! (Newfoundland has a lot of unique berries, as well as Partridge berries, there are bake apples, and cloudberries as well) Apparently this is what all good Newfies have for supper on Christmas Eve. It was lovely to meet some of our neighbours and to see how other people celebrate Christmas eve. It was an early night as the family was off to church at 7 pm. As we had already completed our church going quota for the year, we begged off and were home nice and early.

We have had quite a few snowfalls since we have arrived and in between have managed to explore all the local villages and roadways within a 100 kilometre radius.

We have found out a bit more about the area where we are living. We are in what used to be known as an out- port. Newfoundland is an island full of little bays and coves and fjords and when settlers arrived they moved into most of them and made a living fishing. The out-ports had no road access and were only accessible by boat. During the period between the 50's and the 70's the government decided to try and resettle the population into more concentrated population centres and to build roads to those communities. During this time over 300 communities were abandoned and 30, 000 people resettled. Bruce's family is one of those who were resettled and he takes his boat tours to some of the now abandoned out-ports which are still only accessible by boat or quad bike in the summer or snowmobile in the winter.

Dunfield, where we are is one of the communities which had a road built into it and fishing used to be it's mainstay. However over overfishing in the 60' s and 70's (not by local fishermen, but foreign fishing boats dredging the floor of the Grand Banks where the cod fish used to spawn and basically decimating the fish stocks which have still not recovered)has killed off the fishing industry. Now the remaining folk here earn an income during the summer by working construction or partaking in the burgeoning tourist trade or else the young people move to the cities or the mainland to seek work. Most of the population of Dunfield are retired and they and their families have lived here for generations.

Electronic moose detection system

The country side is spectacularly beautiful, it is all forested, interrupted only by lakes and ponds. When it snows the already iced over lakes glisten in the sun like diamonds as the sun glints off the snow crystals. It is moose hunting season and nearly all the locals we have met have a hunting licence. We were at the local supermarket the other week and a ute pulled up with a fresh moose carcass in the back. Our landlord, Dustin gave us a jar of home shot and potted moose meat for Christmas, which we have yet to try. You can't buy moose meat in the shops but most people have a freezer full!

The novelty of seeing huge white snow flakes fall or watch huge icicles form from the roof when it melts hasn't worn off yet:)

We spend our days reading, watching TV or working on the computer.

The T.C.H. at Gander

A few days ago we decided to explore further afield and drive to the closest big town, Gander, about 200 kilometres away. In many ways it's a bit like being on the boat as we had to keep an eye on the weather to select a 'window' to make the trip. It was a 3 hour drive in each direction and we wanted to ensure we would have no ice, snow storms or severe weather while we were gone. We also wanted to try and be home before it got too late as moose on the loose present a huge problem on country roads at night. They are big animals (horse size) and can suddenly burst out of the woods and on to the road. Each year there are many moose related car accidents. In other parts of Canada where moose are prevalent, the highways are usually fenced. But Newfoundland is such a big island with such a small population it doesn’t make financial sense to do this, so we try and not to be out too late. Don't want a moose in the front seat with us:)

Dee's favorite doughnut shop in the whole world!

We made it to Gander and back without incident, but we had picked one of the coldest days we have had so far. Despite being sunny and bright it was very windy. The temperature was -14 degrees C but with the wind chill factor it was -26 degrees. Yes those are minus signs in front of the temps!! Our anoraks and snow boots kept bodies and feet cosy, although long johns would have been handy for the legs. Noses and cheeks got rosy quite quickly and that was just dashing from car to shops! No wonder they sell electric rechargeable shoes (battery lasts 7 hours) and all manner of warm, padded clothing we have never seen anywhere else. How else could you go moose hunting or keep building a house in those sort of temperatures??

We are so relaxed here and really enjoying experiencing something very different and that we could never do on Sunflower.

In the cottage and it's SNOWING!

Well our arrival in St John's was a bit wilder than anticipated! The Flight from Halifax was delayed 2 hours due to very high winds in St John's. We had boarded the little 50 seater plane and had just got comfy when the pilot suggested we de-plane and see if the winds abated. We really hoped we wouldn't have to spend the night at the airport as we had been up for about 20 hours at this point, but when we got back on the plane the pilot announced we were good to go.

250 mile an hour tail winds knocked half an hour off our journey and as we approached the airport our little plane was swinging from side to side in a rather alarming manner, the whole plane was holding its collective breath! But we landed very smoothly to a huge round of applause:)

We took a taxi to our accommodation for a week and when we arrived the taxi driver got out, gave me a hug and a kiss and said 'welcome to Newfoundland':) we had a very clean , cosy self contained flat which was part of a house. We abandoned trying to buy a car as getting insurance was too difficult so we spent the week exploring and shopping. New winter snow boots, gloves, hats and scarves were on the shopping list!

We met Dustin, the owner of the cottage we would be renting, when he invited us to join him and his wife for dinner at a lovely old pub in down-town St John's. They were a lovely couple and we had a fun evening as they welcomed us to Newfoundland. (they're a very friendly bunch here:)

Dunfield, our cottage extreme left, middle

Finally last Thursday, the big day arrived and we loaded the car and headed north to Dunfield which would be our new home until the beginning of March. The drive was about 300 kilometres most of it along the Trans Canada Highway, through stunningly beautiful scenery. All pine forests and frozen lakes, and hardly another car on the road!.

When we arrived at the cottage (key under the mat) it far surpassed our expectations, it was much better in real life than the web photos suggested and we thought it looked pretty good on line! The cottage is right on the water front, any closer and we'd have wet feet, so it's almost as good as being on a boat:) The cottage has been extended from it's original one bed 1930's summer home to a stunning 2 bed luxury accommodation. There are huge windows from both the ground and upper floors making the most of the views across the water. On a clear day we can almost see Ireland! We go to sleep each night to the sound of the waves lapping on the shore......

The village is tiny and only about 40 families live here, most of the young people have moved away to find work. Our biggest town is Clarenville an hours drive away and even the local small supermarket is a good 15 minutes drive away.

Dustin's Dad delivered a giant Christmas tree (it's artificial, but still the first tree we have had in many years) and it almost touches the ceiling. We had bought lights and decorations at the local dollar store and it looks lovely. We had a quiet day on Alan’s birthday with a celebratory drive into Clarenvillle and a huge lunch of fish and chips, OK we also did a bit of shopping, ice cream included, which kept well frozen in the boot on the drive home.

- 6C and I have to shovel snow!

We were invited to a carol service at the local church by Dustin's Dad and his wife where we met some of our neighbours and to top it all of it snowed properly today. We now have a good 6 inches plus, of pristine white powder everywhere. It's gorgeous! We walked back from the church making footprints in the snow and I even managed to lob a few snowballs in Alan's direction. I had the advantage as he had forgotten his gloves. Doh!

OOHH That was fun....!!!!

Our flights from London, England ( I have to say that now as there is a London in Canada) went well...until the last....
Pam got out of bed at 5:30am to get us to Heathrow  with time spare (thanks Pam) and 8 hrs later we were in Toronto. By the way Marmite is considered a liquid and Dee lost her entire supply at the security check. I lost my Swiss army knife that I accidentally left in my carry-on.

Another 2 hour flight and we are in Halifax, Nova Scotia. The planes kept on getting smaller and we finally ended up sitting in a 50 seat commuter aircraft for the final leg to St Johns, Newfoundland.  After a short delay the pilot tells us that the good news is that the extreme winds that had buffeted Nova Scotia had cleared but the bad news was that these winds had arrived in Newfoundland! Wind gusts were exceeding 100 km/hr (up to 160!!) and that he didn't consider it safe to attempt a landing in St John's. He announced a delay of 2 hrs to see what would happen. Nobody complained.

We all got off and went to Tim Hortons for a doughnut,and then remembered we didn't have any local money!  (I am sure you will read a little more about THs from Dee)

Bombardier CRJ 100/200 (our little plane)

Two hours later we are back on this little plane and the pilot announces that the wind in St John's was still as strong but the direction had changed to along the runway, so he would attempt a landing!!! I overheard one of the passengers comment that "he's an old guy and he's from St John's so if anyone can do it, he can". Hmmmm, hold tight.....  In the air he announced that the normal 1.5 hour flight wouldl only be about 1 hr as we had a 250km/hr tail wind.   As we approached, everyone took the instruction to put their seat belts on very seriously. Even the steward was seen hanging on firmly!  As we got close to the ground the plane was bouncing all over the place and pitching from side to side, but happily we touched down very gently to a cheer from all passengers. As we were leaving, the pilot was standing at the door with a smile on his face. We thanked him.

London

Ratty is now a distant memory (and hopefully long gone!) Sunflower is tucked up in her winter berth and we are about to commence phase 2 of our really big winter adventure...

Horse Guards parade in Oxford St.

Our trip to London went very smoothly; we flew Pegasus, the Turkish equivalent to Ryanair. We have been staying with a dear friend of ours who has moved into a gorgeous new flat in outer London, almost in the countryside. We rented a car for a week so we could do the rounds of our friends, and we also went into central London by public transport a few times. Our 3 weeks has gone very quickly, the highlight of which was celebrating the big 60^th birthday of the friend we are staying with.

Chef Pierre explaining the menu

This was done by a very elegant dinner party in the new flat, fully catered by a flamboyant Frenchman called Pierre. It was a lovely idea, as there was no work beforehand, no washing up and we didn't have to drive home:)

We have been eating out a lot, which although very nice, has played havoc with both our bank account and waistlines (such as they are!)

Now it is time to move on, again! On Thursday morning we fly to Newfoundland to begin the big Canadian adventure. Alan managed to buy a great ski jacket for a bargain price and I have dusted off the cobwebs and had my long winter coat cleaned. The weather forecast for our arrival is St John's is fog and 80 kilometre an hour winds! Hope the pilot can handle that!

The next update will be from the wilds of Newfoundland, or maybe the not so wilds of St John's. We are staying there for a week, as we are going to try to buy a car, as the cost of renting for 3 months is exorbitant!

There is a link to the cottage we will be staying at on the front page of the website if you fancy having a look.  www.sunflowercruising.com

Exciting times in the marina....

Well how about that?    We actually got electricity and water on our dock. This is living! I have been able to store away the Honda generator which has provided us with electricity since we have been here and I ran a hose to the boat to fill a water tank.  Luxury....

The other night was also exciting...a storm came through and our wind speed instrument registered a high gust of 58 knots, at 3am. Mostly it was around 35-45 knots. This was at the top of the mast. It did not feel like that speed on deck but it was dam windy.  This is the highest wind speed we have ever had on the boat. Luckily it was in a marina!

Today is our last day in here. We fly to London tomorrow morning.