Sunday, 29 January 2012

Dunfield, Newfoundland, Canada


While we are not actually 'doing' much to write about I realised that I have probably not really managed to convey the spirit of where we are.

Part of Dunfield from the hill behind our cottage
For me a city girl, it is a novel experience to be part of such a small isolated community. For Alan, who grew up in a small isolated village, in Australia, similar to Dunfield, it is a familiar feeling. Although even Lowanna where Alan grew up, had a corner store and a post office, Dunfield has neither. There is no public transport so a car is an essential and if you have to get to work in all weathers then 4 wheel drive is almost compulsory. People who do not have cars rely on their neighbours to take them to the shops or doctors appointments etc. Many of the villagers are second and third generation and live in the same houses their parents and even grandparents were born and grew up in. About 40 houses are occupied here. Many of the villagers share common surnames like Spurrell or Clarke and even if they are not related they have known each other all their lives. Everybody knows what is going on and who is doing what. There are a few newcomers who have restored old cottages here as summer residences and only visit for a few weeks at a time.

Our local "corner store".
The closest shop of any kind is several kilometres away and is a basic convenience store and while it stocks all the basics, like most small convenience stores anywhere it is expensive. You still have to drive to get there. 

The big supermarket at Port Rexton
A few extra kilometres brings you to Port Rexton which has 2 small supermarkets, one of which is a co-op and has good products at reasonable prices. The other supermarket also has a liquor store attached as well as petrol pumps. In addition there is also our closest open restaurant called Coopers, which sells basic burgers, fish and chips and a tasty concoction called a truckers special of chips, mince meat cheese and gravy. No health food here!

A house in Trinity
Next to Port Rexton is the well known village of Trinity which is full of beautifully restored buildings on a hill with water all around. There is a church, theatre, bank,several craft shops, cafes B&B's and holiday cottages. However, only about 4 families live there year around and right now it is like a ghost town as all the tourist places are closed until May.

Bonavista lighthouse
Our closest 'town' is Bonavista about 50 kilometres away on the northern tip of the peninsula. We pass through many small villages on the way, but Bonavista has several eateries, and supermarkets and other small shops. It is mainly a fishing town and there is a fish processing facility. And of course in summer there are tourists who come to see the lighthouse and a replica of John Cabot's ship the Matthew. Cabot arrived in Newfoundland over 500 years ago. It takes about 45minutes to drive there.

For a big day out we go to Clarenville about 70 kms away and is a solid one hour drive each way. Clarenville has a hospital, Wallmart, Canadian tire (wallmart type place) 2 small malls, a variety of shops and eateries mainly of the fast food type.

Ice on the bay at Dunfield
For us, the Trans Canada Highway starts at Clarenville so it is all country roads until we get there. The roads cut through beautiful forest land with lakes and frozen ponds everywhere.

We love the cottage it is very comfortable and cosy. We had wanted to have a log fire but actually we are glad we don't have to worry about keeping the fire stoked and the supply of firewood. The electric heating is included in the cost of the cottage and works very well. Our kitchen, dining and living and bedrooms all look over the ocean and our private cove. There is an island on the horizon which looks like a mini Ayers rock in the middle of the ocean. We have rugged cliffs behind the cottage and pine forests all around the other sides. On bright sunny days the water sparkles even though it can be sub zero outside.
Our first ever attempt at a snowman


Today we have had the biggest snowstorm since we arrived in Canada, our island has disappeared in the fog and snow is swirling around the cottage. It is building on the window ledges, the car is just a huge white mound and the sea laps against a snow covered beach. It is always very quite here, except for the sound of the ocean, however the snow dampens all sound so it is even quieter than normal, The cliffs are all white and the fir trees are weighed down with the soft white powder.










We could probably have gone somewhere less remote to experience snow. There are plenty of European countries,like Austria and Switzerland with snow, even Scotland. But they are also major winter sports destinations and that's not what we wanted, although Alan is very keen to go snowmobiling. Seeing as just about every rural Canadian owns a snowmobile I don't think it will be hard to get him a ride, we just need enough snow, and if it keeps up like it is today that shouldn't be a problem!


a local road in Dunfield
The Newfies are excellent at keeping the roads clear. 

One type of snowplough,
Time get the car out....
The snowploughs are out the minute the snow lays down. It's not just dedicated snowploughs, 4 wheels drives and even quad bikes all have blade  attachments so the locals just get out and plough away, especially in the more remote roads.

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