While we are not
actually 'doing' much to write about I realised that I have probably
not really managed to convey the spirit of where we are.
Part of Dunfield from the hill behind our cottage |
For me a city girl, it
is a novel experience to be part of such a small isolated community.
For Alan, who grew up in a small isolated village, in Australia, similar to
Dunfield, it is a familiar feeling. Although even Lowanna where Alan
grew up, had a corner store and a post office, Dunfield has neither.
There is no public transport so a car is an essential and if you
have to get to work in all weathers then 4 wheel drive is almost
compulsory. People who do not have cars rely on their neighbours to
take them to the shops or doctors appointments etc. Many of the
villagers are second and third generation and live in the same houses
their parents and even grandparents were born and grew up in. About
40 houses are occupied here. Many of the villagers share common
surnames like Spurrell or Clarke and even if they are not
related they have known each other all their lives. Everybody knows
what is going on and who is doing what. There are a few newcomers who
have restored old cottages here as summer residences and only visit
for a few weeks at a time.
Our local "corner store". |
The closest shop of any
kind is several kilometres away and is a basic convenience store and
while it stocks all the basics, like most small convenience stores
anywhere it is expensive. You still have to drive to get there.
The big supermarket at Port Rexton |
A few
extra kilometres brings you to Port Rexton which has 2 small
supermarkets, one of which is a co-op and has good products at
reasonable prices. The other supermarket also has a liquor store
attached as well as petrol pumps. In addition there is also our
closest open restaurant called Coopers, which sells basic burgers,
fish and chips and a tasty concoction called a truckers special of
chips, mince meat cheese and gravy. No health food here!
A house in Trinity |
Next to Port Rexton is
the well known village of Trinity which is full of beautifully
restored buildings on a hill with water all around. There is a
church, theatre, bank,several craft shops, cafes B&B's and
holiday cottages. However, only about 4 families live there year
around and right now it is like a ghost town as all the tourist
places are closed until May.
Bonavista lighthouse |
Our closest 'town' is
Bonavista about 50 kilometres away on the northern tip of the
peninsula. We pass through many small villages on the way, but
Bonavista has several eateries, and supermarkets and other small
shops. It is mainly a fishing town and there is a fish processing
facility. And of course in summer there are tourists who come to see
the lighthouse and a replica of John Cabot's ship the Matthew. Cabot
arrived in Newfoundland over 500 years ago. It takes about 45minutes to drive
there.
For a big day out we go
to Clarenville about 70 kms away and is a solid one hour drive each way.
Clarenville has a hospital, Wallmart, Canadian tire (wallmart type
place) 2 small malls, a variety of shops and eateries mainly of the
fast food type.
Ice on the bay at Dunfield |
For us, the Trans Canada Highway starts at Clarenville so it is all country roads until we get
there. The roads cut through beautiful forest land with lakes and
frozen ponds everywhere.
We love the cottage it
is very comfortable and cosy. We had wanted to have a log fire but
actually we are glad we don't have to worry about keeping the fire
stoked and the supply of firewood. The electric heating is included in the
cost of the cottage and works very well. Our kitchen, dining and
living and bedrooms all look over the ocean and our private cove.
There is an island on the horizon which looks like a mini Ayers rock
in the middle of the ocean. We have rugged cliffs behind the cottage
and pine forests all around the other sides. On bright sunny days
the water sparkles even though it can be sub zero outside.
Our first ever attempt at a snowman |
Today we have had the
biggest snowstorm since we arrived in Canada, our island has
disappeared in the fog and snow is swirling around the cottage. It is
building on the window ledges, the car is just a huge white mound and
the sea laps against a snow covered beach. It is always very quite
here, except for the sound of the ocean, however the snow dampens all
sound so it is even quieter than normal, The cliffs are all white and
the fir trees are weighed down with the soft white powder.
We could probably have
gone somewhere less remote to experience snow. There are plenty of
European countries,like Austria and Switzerland with snow, even Scotland. But they are also major winter sports destinations and
that's not what we wanted, although Alan is very keen to go
snowmobiling. Seeing as just about every rural Canadian owns a
snowmobile I don't think it will be hard to get him a ride, we just
need enough snow, and if it keeps up like it is today that shouldn't
be a problem!
a local road in Dunfield |
The Newfies are
excellent at keeping the roads clear.
One type of snowplough, |
Time get the car out.... |
The snowploughs are out the
minute the snow lays down. It's not just dedicated snowploughs, 4
wheels drives and even quad bikes all have blade attachments so the
locals just get out and plough away, especially in the more remote
roads.
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