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| The very winding road over the mountains |
After the cooking school we did a day trip in a 4X4 to the High Atlas mountains over a high mountain pass. On the way we stopped at Telouet which used to be a major stop for all the caravans traveling the only route over the mountains. Now there is a good road over the mountains and camels no longer haul goods around the country so Telouet has reverted to a small village, unchanged since the middle ages, which still hosts the weekly souk or market which brings nomadic Berbers from miles around to buy, sell and trade goods. We were there on a Thursday which just happened to be the souk day. It was very interesting although not really my sort of market, mainly foodstuffs and second hand clothing(and lots of donkeys!:). But it was busy with people arriving on everything from foot to donkey to VERY overloaded vehicles! After a quick mooch it was off to the kasbah; an old fort which has fallen into disrepair but still showed signs of the extravagance which had once been lavished upon it.
Once over the mountain pass we stopped for lunch surrounded by the snow capped High Atlas mountains. Then it was on to Ouarzazet, the Hollywood of Morocco where there are several film studios. We drove for many hours through the red desert, so reminiscent of the red heart of Australia. However unlike Australia, here houses built of red mud brick seem to grow up out of the earth looking as if they have just sprouted, like organic life forms. It was therefore a huge shock to suddenly be driving , not on dusty dirt roads, but immaculate dual carriage ways with the most ornate street lights disappearing into the horizon. Instead of mud brick homes there were fancy 2 and 3 story houses, street cafes, fancy shiny cars, kids roller blading and not a donkey in sight! Movies obviously pay well! Many movies have been made here even if they were not set in Morocco. Morocco doubles well for Egypt, ancient Rome and any middle eastern or dessert setting. Among some of the films made here were Sahara, Lawrence of Arabia and Gladiator.
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| Our driver Boujemaa |
We wondered around the movie museum which we had all to ourselves and was very interesting. Nothing is as it seems! Then it was time for the long drive back over the mountains. Such a contrast between the cities and the rural poor, who live as they have for centuries except perhaps for the addition of satellite TV, whose ubiquitous dishes are seen on even the most humble dwelling. But the women were out scouring the barren country side for wood, with or without their donkeys. It was not unusual to see women stooped over with a child bundled on their front and a massive bundle of firewood strapped to their backs. Life is hard out here.
We then enjoyed another day wandering around the souk back in Marrakesh, although by now the constant haggling and feeling of being ripped off at every opportunity by the locals who view the tourists as an endless money pit was starting to pall. Thank goodness it isn’t like that here in Rabat or I don't think I could cope!
When we got to the station to come home it was very busy, being a Sunday afternoon the locals were on the move. To our horror we discovered that first class was full! Oh no, we had to travel second class! It wasn't too bad but we were very glad we got there early and where the train commenced or we may not have got a seat. Everyone including us had luggage and although the train didn't stop all that often, and whenever it did more people got on than got off, so by the time we got to Rabat, 5 hours later we were somewhat cramped and very relieved to be able to stretch our legs. We will be riding the train again next week as Ryanair only fly out of Fez. But it is only a 2.5 hour train trip this time and in the other direction!
On Tuesday we're off to the south of France for Christmas and New Year ! Yes, it's a bit of a shock to us too! We got an email from an Aussie mate of ours who we met in the San Blas about 6 years ago where he was chartering his 60 foot boat, Golden Eagle. We have stayed in touch and he sailed from Panama to Europe about the same time we were crossing the Atlantic, but our paths never met. He is now in Sardinia and had received an offer from his old boss to house sit his mansion in the south of France over Christmas. Peter wondered if we would like to join him? Would we ever!!!Luckily we are now in the area of cheap flights with the likes of Ryanair, so for $100 we managed to get a return flight for both of us. We leave on 21st December and return on 2nd January which gives us a couple of days to say 'hallo' to Sunflower and re-pack before heading off to London for a month long visit with friends.
All this land/air travel is very tiring, it's just so much easier to take your house with you!
